Coorg Diary (snippets from the 2019 girl trip)

Just one of the Coorg vista

“Akash bhora, surjo tara

Bishwa bhora pran

Tahari majhkhane ami peyechi mor shtan…”

 Loosely translated in my head it refers to the vibrant blue planet which has stars, sun and moon shining their magic wherein the mere fact that I have found a space to witness the magic is a surreal feeling.

For literal translation of the well- known song by Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, you can visit :http://gitabitan-en.blogspot.com/2009/10/firmament-of-sun-and-stars.html

 

Nearly 26 years of knowing each other on this planet 🙂

Two friends on a road trip hummed the same tune – one can actually sing while the other one is off tune but can ‘feel’ the lyrics. And it so happens that each of their father immensely loved this song written by Tagore. One of the father is alive and doing well (touchwood) at 75ish, the other ceased to exist at 48ish. Decades later the daughters still relate to the magical lyrics as they soak the lush greenery of what is locally known as Scotland of India aka Coorg.

Given traveling with the husband, kids, partners, pets etc., is a change of location and not a vacation, one or two yearly trips with girlfriends is the saving grace. This is one such short girl trip travelogue.

Reading time: 15 minutes

26 years and still giggling

Coorg (aka Kodagu):

Coorg or Kodagu the well-known for the coffee that is grown here is located in the southern part of India, in the state of Karnataka. Known for the lush greenery and beautiful misty landscape nestled between green forests, Coorg is a must-visit for nature lovers.

Madikeri

 

Brief history: Following Coorg’s British annexation in the early 1830s, the region was directly under British rule until the Indian Independence in the late 1947. Coorg was recognized by the Indian Constitution as part “C” state and elected a government to assume office in the early 1950s with a chief minister of its own. In November 1956, the State of Coorg was amalgamated with the onetime state of Mysore, as part of a state reorganization. Now, the district of Coorg (Kodagu) is part of the state of Karnataka. Throughout the history of Coorg, no ruler has held direct sway over the region. Coorg has always been under the influence of local chieftains.

Uniqueness: The culture of Coorg has never been assimilated with the neighbours and has always maintained their unique identity. Coorgis have interesting cultural amalgamation. Even though Coorgis follow Animism and Hinduisms their marriages, birth celebrations are performed by a priest. A patrilineal tribe, the women are mostly educated and have rights and treated well. For example, widow remarriage have been an accepted social norm for a long time though in parts of India in certain sections people still raise their eyebrows over it. Guns have always been a part of their culture (for example there is a gun salutation when a son is born) though they hardly misuse it.

Coorgi women in traditional attire (Image taken from the net -Utsavpedia)

Best time to travel: This tranquil part of Karnataka, Coorg, can be a year round destination keeping the pleasant weather in mind. However end of September to April is recommended. We did a brave thing by visiting it during (in)famous Indian monsoon; in fact the red alert was sounded just after a day after we left. Certain areas in Coorg are low lying and gets flooded cutting off supplies and electricity so do check thoroughly before you make a monsoon plan.

Duration: A lot of travel sites and random people will suggest that it can be just a weekend gateaway from Bangalore. But if you truly want to explore Coorg and also relax (not one of those tourists who must tick all boxes within a 48 hours trip) then do plan a minimum 2N/3days or 3N/ 4days trip. You can take leisurely walks, trek, enjoy visits to the coffee and pepper plantations, visit nearby places of interest and have a wholesome short holiday.

 

Bangalore to Coorg: Coorg can be accessed from various parts of India by bus, trains and planes. Do check (and discuss with the place you will be staying) for the nearest station/ airport from your starting point.

I have always driven down from Bangalore, jotting down the route we took. Bangalore Nice Road – Kanakapura – Malavally – Mysore outer Ring Road – Kushalnagar (via Hunasur) – Madikeri.

Tobacco cultivation

We started at around 7.30 am, while it is great to start even earlier; we were not in a hurry and wanted a leisurely drive. The road conditions are mostly okay, as of mid-2019, and you have small villages and lots of greenery to feast your eyes. You should be able to reach Coorg within 6 hours (including lunch break). We stopped at Bylakuppe (one of the biggest settlement of Tibetans besides Dharamsala) and ended up spending nearly 2 hours. Bylakuppe in itself has a lot to offer, so if you have time in hand you can stop there for a day.

Inside the magnificent Namdroling Monastery

 

Homestays:

The town of Madiketri is the region’s centre point with all transportation for getting around starts from here. Besides Madikeri, cover the beautiful towns like Virajpet, Kushalnagar, Gonikoppal, Pollibetta, Kakkabe and Somwarpet, and if you are someone who do not wish to stay at resorts and hotels, you have the option of experiencing the concept of “homestays” to make your experience more memorable. However Homestays can be a great, good, okay and downright bad experience depending on which one you chose. Do research extensively prior to zeroing in.

Red Earth which we zeroed in for a number of reasons provides clean rooms and bathrooms. The staffs are very polite. The food is home cooked and tasty. The main hall where food is served and which also doubles up for sitting and playing board games is aesthetically done up. However there are two points I will categorically mention:

1. This place works very well if you are in a bigger group. You can take up the 3-4 bedrooms in the main bungalow and surrounded by your friends and family feel home away from home. But if you are a couple or just 2 women traveling like we were, I found it unnerving that there was not a soul in the property the day we reached except 3 male staff.  There is no phone signal and our driver was not around for the night (they do not provide driver accommodation though food is served at a nominal price) and neither my friend or I self-drive it was slightly scary. The crime rate across globe is high and if I call something a ‘homestay’ either someone from the family or at least a woman around would have made us feel safer.
2. Another issue is in places like this there are no small hotels close by. The nearest place is Madikeri, some 8 kms away which is not at all walkable in rain. Drivers made to sleep in the car especially after a long journey may not be the best idea. I always choose places that offer driver accommodation. Everyone needs a proper bed to rest. If you believe in dignity of labour. This is a very personal pov.

 

Part of the seating area in the main bungalow

Things to do: Coorg has various offerings for various travelers. You can explore the quaint towns, trek to the waterfalls, visit numerous temples that this region has, take a coffee plantation tour, try rafting at the rapids, try out the jeep rides at Mandalpatti, explore camping and fishing options and spend time at the Elephant camp nearby (though I am VERY skeptical about most wildlife camps in India since I am associated with animal welfare and know what goes behind the scenes and I will DISCOURAGE elephant rides till my last breath).

I am one of those slow movement believers and when I am on vacations I do tend to mostly read, soak in nature as I sip my favourite alcoholic beverage and walk aimlessly. The trip to Talakaveri was not in my personal agenda. Nan, my friend, was very clear she will visit it and I tagged along. It has been a surreal experience, an eye opener and thus finds a special mention in the blog.

Steps that lead to the Talacauvery

Talakaveri:

I have deep faith in God though I am not much of a temple goer. However this is one temple that made me feel I can leave everything behind, walk into clouds and seek the divine within us. It was so magical, so peaceful, so deeply calming with clouds floating all around, that I felt purged of the daily stress of urban life and the decadent society we live in.

The temple premises

Situated approximately 40 kms from Madikeri and 8 kms from Bhagamandala, the winding road to Talacauvery is breathtakingly scenic with pepper, coffee, cardamom plantations and lush green paddy fields and storybook pretty bungalows dotting he landscape on either side. The Talacauvery temple premises situated on the slopes of Brahmagiri mountains is at a height of 1276 mts above sea level.

At Talacauvery there is a small square tank, the holy pond, called Cauvery Kundike or Brahma Kundike, which is the Ugama Sthana or the birth place of River Cauvery. Cauvery is one of the seven sacred rivers of Bharat (or India). Here, River Cauvery emerges as a perennial spring and disappears underground. She again surfaces at Nagathirtha near Bhagamandala and joins with Kannike and Sujyoti (at Triveni Sangam) and covers a distance of 800 km through Karnataka and Tamil Nadu to merge with Bay of Bengal. The temple premise has three quaint temples dedicated to – Goddess Caveriamma, Lord Agastheeshwara (Lord Shiva appeared before Sage Agasthya) and Lord Vinayaka.

You can read up the interesting story of how Cauvery flew underground in a rage (most Indian rivers have a mythological story of their existence) from various sources. I liked the way it has been simplified in the Kathakids blog. Link as follows:

https://kathakids.com/mythological-stories-ganesha-katha-the-birth-of-kaveri-9fc514d016c3

Must shop:

Organic, unadulterated coffee, handmade chocolates, wine (the wine here is not just made from grapes and gooseberries but also uses ginger, betel leaves, banana, pineapple and passion fruits as ingredients with sugar-free version available), spices, honey, Tibetan artefacts from Bylakuppe and Kushal Nagar market and the Kokkethathi pendant (crescent shape pendant mandatory for the Coorg bride).

Coorg cuisine (Pic taken from the net NDTV food)

We tried out local cuisine at Coorg Cuisine in the Madikeri town. There are various options one can research and then explore depending on what suits the palate. Pandi curry and Akki roti is well known though Coorgi cuisine is much more than that. If you are not into eating animals, try the beetroot halwa at this restaurant at least. It is finger licking good.

It was very short but very worth-it vacation. Hope all of you who choose Coorg have similar experiences to cherish.

 

 

Bangalore walks

An old cottage style house on Palace Road

We all know that one of the best way to explore any city is to walk around and discover the unique charm each of them hold.

Walking gives you a sense of the place – whether it is laid back, generally friendly to outsiders or one of those bustling ones where no one stops to enjoy what is around and would rather literally push you to grab the next available cab.  Walking makes you more aware of surroundings as you leisurely explore a place you walk into non touristy side lanes, stop at a local shop and take in your surroundings. If you are with a companion on your explore-the-city walk, you actually speak more to each other than you would do in today’s smartphone addicted world where we are slowly forgetting the art of conversations.

Breakfast at Glass house, Church Street

This Ganesh Chathurthi, knowing it will be relatively smooth to travel from one end of the city to another avoiding Bangalore’s legendary traffic jams, my friend and I took a leisurely walk around Palace road and explored Balabrooie Guest House, a quaint Shri Maruthi temple (the fragrance of incense welcomed us there and it was very peaceful and soothing) and NGMA.

The Balabrooie Guest House:

The name does not sound very Indian, right? That is because Balabrooie means “farm on the river bank” in Isle of Man where Sir Mark Cubbon spent his childhood.

This iconic colonial mansion, dates back to around 1850 is spread over 16 acres and is home to a wide variety (some mention 150 different types) of century old trees. Sir Cubbon, who was the first resident of this elegant house could not go back ‘home’ in his lifetime and maybe knowing that he named the house seeped in nostalgia from his past. Post Cubbon’s death the house by Sir Frank Bower and remained as residence of the Commissioner of Mysore till India’s independence in 1947.

Of girlfriend times in our lives

The large doors, windows and covered verandahs lined with colums reflect European architecture. It also has a grand portico, just the way it is described in so many novels where big houses and mansions are part of the stories.

Over years Balabrooie has hosted some significant guests – Rabindranath Tagore, Mahatma Gandhi Jawaharlal Nehru and Dewans of Mysore. It is said that Tagore’s eternal classic ‘Sesher Kobita’ and parts of his other well known work Yogayog was written while he resided here for couple of weeks. Besides hosting distinguished guests this house also served as Sir M Visvesvaraya’s office.

The stately Balabrooie unfortunately has a jinxed reputation (there seems to be various Vaastu defects in this house) since S. Bommai, Karnataka CM in 1988 moved in here ignoring superstitions and had his government toppled in 6 months due to defection of his party MLAs. Since then, no CM made this his residence and this house has now been converted into a state guest house and is maintained by the state hospitality department.

No one stopped us from roaming around and enjoying our time under the canopy of those huge trees as we watched doves and crows hanging out together near well placed water bowls for birds and squirrels.

NGMA:

The National Gallery of Modern Art opened its doors in Bangalore in 2009. Located in Manikyavelu Mansion spread over 3.5 acres is  run and administered as subordinate office of Ministry of Culture, GOI. The other two NGMAs are located in Delhi (where I have spent many hours in complete peace soaking art) and Mumbai.

Part of NGMA

The collection here mainly comprises of paintings, early photographs, sculptures and graphic prints. Besides the permanent display of artworks, NGMA also showcases national and international exhibitions. I was keen on checking out S.G Vasudev’s retrospective since I love his copper works.

How well they have incorporated existing trees in their architecture

The serene ambiance consists of a mirror pool, huge trees, a museum shop and an additional building or gallery block designed in such a way that it merges beautifully with the heritage mansion.

NGMA conducts various educational program, workshops and talks on art and culture. Their official site has all the relevant information.

For more on SG Vasudev, click on : http://www.vasudevart.com/

Go on, start exploring the city and ‘keep walking’ a la Walker. 🙂

 

 

 

Yelagiri: A short and sweet weekend gateaway

It all started with an unwashed car belonging to the husband and a traveler friend who could take 2 days off her hectic schedule.

It has often happened to people that they have traveled far and wide and places to seek balm for the soul but quaint places that can offer you solace, a couple of hours by road away have somehow slipped the travel itinerary. The same happened to us.

A decade of living in B’lore and umpteen number of road trips later we had not covered Yelagiri a lovely little hill town, located just 2.5 hours (by road without traffic) from our home 😉

Built in 1964, Yelagiri is a hill station in Vellore district, Tamil Nadu, southeast India. Nestled among lush green hills, situated at an altitude of 1,110.6 m above sea level and spread across 30 sq kms, the entire village of Yelagiri (sometimes referred as Ealagiri) was once the private property of the Zamindars of Yelagiri.  Being a Zamindar was quite cool when one looks at the vista – after all Yelagiri is surrounded by orchards and green valleys!

The Ghat roads

 

Roads:

Yelagiri is located approximately 160 kms from B’lore (considering MG road and surroundings as starting point) and 230 kms from Chennai. Since Yelagiri does not have an airport of a helipad facility, one would ideally drive / ride from the closest big city. Tamil Nadu has more or less good roads. That is where you realise that some Indian politicians possibly took their poll promises seriously and ensured that their home states are managed better than so many others.

The drive will be smooth on most parts. There are petrol bunks and clean good eateries between Bangalore and Krishnagiri so if you have forgotten to pack sandwiches and coffee for your drive and need to stop for food, you are sorted.

Hamlets that one crosses between Jolarpettai and Yelagiri

Keep an eye for the right turn towards Jolarpettai, if you miss it you will move further towards Chennai. Once you take the right turn you pass my hamlets straight out of nostalgia laden memories and a winding road leads you towards the Ghat road.  It has around 14 hairpin bends, so do drive carefully.

 

You see quite a few such colourful figures guarding localities/ temples on the way

Stay:

There are more than enough options given it is a very small place. Budget hotels to three star resorts. We had booked ourselves at the Sterling. Frankly all the hotels and resorts were too commercial–look and feel wise for my personal taste (I am NOT a home stay person) but as travelers one accepts that most places we visit and stay have their shares of pros and cons. Do book in advance; there is a huge rush on most weekends.

Tip: The food at Sterling was really good. The rooms are spacious, clean and airy. Ideally book one that overlooks the various pathways outside the hotel; that way you can have some peace and quiet if you hang out at the balcony. These establishments do attract lots of families with hysterically screaming kids.

Things to do:

Tamil Nadu tourism is focussing on developing it as a hotspot for trekkers, paragliding and other adventure sports enthusiasts. One can google/ call the Tourism board for detailed information. Frankly I went to catch up with a very close friend (our schedules make it difficult to catch up though we live in the same city) and walk mindlessly.

There are various quaint trails one can choose for walks. It is after all a small town so getting lost is not an option.

The highlight of the short trip was a visit to Fundera Park, recommended by an animal welfare circle friend. Fundera Park is a wildlife sanctuary and petting farm overlooking the hills.

My friend and I spent considerable time there and came back happy having made some new friends – non humans of course! There are rabbits, guinea pigs, donkeys, cows (of nearly extinct Indian breeds), Iguanas, an Ostrich whose mate has sadly passed on, a wide collection of birds including the biggest parrots available in the world and the smallest dove.

The animals and birds are very well taken care, there is a small eatery inside (for a quick bite and tea/ coffee/ cold drinks) and a herb garden (to help increase your knowledge on same) and you can spend as much time as you like interacting with animals without harming/ disturbing them.

Ray and Alex – the rescued ones

Vishak and Abhinaya are doing a great job, they have hired locals as caretakers and trained them making it a sustainable employment option and I look forward to the time when they can offer accommodation right inside the sanctuary for few animal and nature loving junta like us 🙂

This one was snoozing and looked at us nonchalantly

Tip: Carry sneakers and a light cardigan/ shawl. It is chilly in the early mornings and once sun sets.

While the landscapes and the vistas are the main attractions, Yelagiri also offers few well known tourist hotspots namely, the Jalagamparai waterfalls, the trek to Swamimalai Hills, Punganoor Lake Park and few ancient Hindu temples.

Go on, visit it. It is a quick drive to a lovely weekend gate away. Don’t be like me and take years to visit it 🙂

 

 

 

 

Galibore Fishing camp – gem of a weekend gateway

I have the strangest of reasons to zero in on road trips.

On our way to Gorukana (from Bangalore) we had driven down a winding road passing through quaint villages which reminded me of Malgudi Days*. It was so unlike the geographical areas my current live revolves around that I was very keen to go for a drive down those roads again.  Trying to convince the Husband did not yield results because he loves wide national highways to test his car!

A high school friend’s whirlwind visit beginning of this month, gave me that opportunity when we decided to take a quick break. Some internet research and ‘have been there’ feedback from few friends motivated us to spend 2 days 1 night at the rustic yet well managed comforts of Galibore Fishing and Nature camp (claps in glee as one needs to travel down the same winding road), tucked away deep in the middle of deciduous forests, by the bank of the river Cauvery, 100kms from Bangalore and approximately 10 km from Sangam – the confluence of rivers Cauvery and Arkavathy.

Named after the windy hillock Galibore that stands guarding it, the camp is indeed tucked away from the maddening crowd or what is commonly termed as ‘civilization’. A glamping destination, Galibore Fishing Camp run by Jungle lodges offers 12 tented cottages with attached bath, comfortable beds, an old fashioned dresser, clothes stand, comfortable cane chairs – the whole luxury shebang 🙂

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The best time to visit as stated in their site is between August and February when the river is swollen and the vegetation around is rich green with plenty of bird sightings but frankly unless the weather is killing hot, you can always go there for a short break cum soul refueling.

We started at 9 am since it was closer from our part of town. Once you hit the NICE road, take the Kanakpura exit and head towards Kanakapura town. We had stopped at MTR for breakfast which has its usual fare. Small tip: The ragi dosa made at the JLR Galibore was way more sumptuous 🙂  Branded food (even when not packaged is sometimes over rated). There are clean loos so this can be a good pit stop till you reach the resort.

Route : Bangalore- Kanakapura road- Kanakapura town- Left turn a KNS Circle in Kanakapura town towards Sangama road- Sangama- Right turn just before Sangama onto a forest road.

As you drive down the winding road leading to Sangam, small villages, low rolling hillocks and intermittent vast fields on both sides dot the landscape. Once you are close to Sangam, there is a board that directs you towards the Galibore camp. You need to enter your name, contact number and car number at the jungle entry point. One guard did ask us if we had a reservation, so it is always nice to carry a screenshot of the booking or a printout of the reservation confirmation mail (in case you like wasting paper). Ah! Here comes the bumpy ride. The next 10 kms is on rough, desolate terrain and ideally one should take a XUV/ SUV as suggested by the JLR team subtly when I booked the trip.

There are some rustic huts and small settlements inside the jungle but once you reach the camp you realise you are truly cut off from the world. Mobile signals fluctuate (what a relief!) and you can spend time watching the river flow by, check out birds of different feathers (nearly 230 species that includes river terns, fishing eagles, kingfisher, various kinds of owls, green pigeons, woodpeckers among others) and swing along with huge groups of monkeys. They are polite and even knock at your tent door before entering.

I of course made friends with dogs (the one compulsion of my life) who are content with life with scraps they get and enough space.

There are coracle rides where you can watch marsh crocodiles sunbathing, bird watching with trained naturalists, guided treks, rafting in specific months and cycles to explore in and around or walk by the river bed. My friend tried the coracle ride and early morning walk. I just put my feet up, watched the river, the pollution less sky, chatted up monkeys, listened to bird calls and caught up on my reading.

While surfing the net for information I came across the following points which needs clarifying.

1. While it is a fishing camp and the rapids and pools that are characteristics of the camp which made is a favourite among Anglers, fishing (especially the famed Mahaseer) is not allowed anymore.
2. The camp does have electricity. Yes, it gets pitch dark once the sun sets but there are lights outside every tent and extra standing fan besides the ceiling one in each tent. However carrying a torch or a phone that has a bright torch will help the traveller.

The food, buffet style, served at the Gol ghar is simple and sumptuous. The staff feeds the guests with a lot of warmth keeping in with the traditional Indian ‘atithi devo bhava’ ** approach and that is a marked difference from the expensive food joints that gets unnecessary mileage on social media these days. The staff did set up a lovely bonfire just next to the river bank in the evening;  it was lovely and reminiscent of one of my Corbett trips that I would undertake decades back, but it started raining and we had to cut the star gazing short and head inside.

There are hammocks, birds, nature and even a tumbling net Jand so close to the city – ideal for a short, immensely relaxing break. I am wondering what took me 9 long years of being in Bangalore to find this gem!

Contact details for the resort:

Uyamballi Post, Kanakapura Taluk, Sangam, Bangalore District (Rural)
Around Bangalore- 562117 Karnataka, India
Manager: Mr. Abhijit Dutta
Contact Number: 9449599768
Land-line: 080-29784504
Email Id: galibore@junglelodges.com

*Malgudi Days : An Indian television series, much popular in the mid 1980s. It was directed by Shankar Nag based on RK Narayan’s stories revolving around a ten year old Swami and his friends.

**Athithi Devo Bhava: Translated means, “Guest is equivalent to God”. It refers to a dynamic guest-host relationship and is a way of life where the guest is made to feel welcome and cherished.

 

 

Jungle Diaries -1 (Gorukana)

I love not Man the less, but Nature more.

• Lord Byron, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Why are jungles* so enthralling?

I do not visit jungles or rather forests (closer to technically correct definition) to see THE big cat, magnificent tuskers, adorable baby elephants playing truant, the innocent eyed gaurs, sleek leopards, Disney-land cute deer and various other beautiful animals and birds who inhabit it. If our paths cross, there is deep excitement, I admit.  However that is not the primary reason.

Jungles are assault on all senses. You think you know about jungles because you have seen innumerable photographs, films and Nat geo documentaries. But unless you step in, mesmerized by the various shades of green, yellow and brown around, you do not realize that each view is unique. The mornings are real cool but soon give way to balmy, sweaty heat. There is a kind of hum that rises from all directions – chirping of unheard before birds you cannot spot among the dense foliage, breaking of a twig somewhere creating a ripple in the stillness, buzz of insects, faint footsteps of some creature looking for water source as they step over dry leaves, the sudden cry of a barking deer (Indian munjtac) making you jump out of your skin.

I visit jungles to touch some of the trees, run my hand over their barks, some are not smooth; I get scratches back in return. Very small prices to pay for the vast devastation my species have caused them over centuries. There are numerous un-trodden paths that tempts; do they lead to wonderland where you meet Alice? There is always that I-do-not-know-what-the-next-bend-holds feeling, the sheer unpredictability, the typical jungle fragrance, the sunrays playing hide and seek as they peep between leafy canopies overhead, the feeling of being inconsequential – that is why I go back to jungles. Again. And again.

For the love of jungles

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BR Hills or Biligirirangana Hills, a part of Biligiri Rangaswamy wildlife sanctuary, is a hill range situated in the south eastern part of Karnataka or at the easternmost part of the Western Ghats. Situated a mere 175 kms from Bangalore, the mostly unpsoilt forests of BR hills have been on my agenda for more than 5 years; finally it did materialize few weeks back when we spent three jungle-happy days there.

Sabr ka phal meetha hota hain.**

The sanctuary, spread over an area of 540 square kms, gets its name from Biligiri (white rock in Kannada) from the white rock face that constitutes the hill where the temple of Lord Rangaswamy is situated. Some say the name is derived from the white mist and the silver clouds that cover these hills for a greater part of the year.

The pristine forests of BR Hills protected under the Wildlife protection Act of 1972, is located at the confluence of eastern and Western Ghats. Home to eco systems unique to both the mountain ranges, the vast biodiversity found in this unique corridor is a reflection of wide ranging climatic conditions. These climatic conditions are in a large part due to the varying altitudes which peaks to as high 1200m above the 600m basal plateau resulting in difference in rainfall. The forest vegetation consisting of deciduous, evergreen and scrubs have nearly 800 species of plants from various families and a diverse number of animals. BR hills is home to about 26 species of mammals including the Asian elephant, Gaur – Asia’s largest bovine, Sambhar, Chital, Barking deer and the rare four-horned Antelope are also found here. Carnivores include the critically endangered tiger (count in 2015 showcased 56 of them), elusive leopards as well as wild dogs, lesser cats and sloth bears.

They are a paradise for bird watchers, with more than 270 species of birds including the Spot Bellied Jungle Owl, Serpent Eagle, Babbler, Seven Sisters, Scarlet Minivet, Racket-Tailed Drongo, Crested Hawk Eagle and Old World Flycatcher inhabiting them. There are also over three species of squirrels.

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Gorukana:

Of the two serene resorts available for stay at BR Hills we had chosen Gorukana.

I had seen their Swiss Chalet like cottages meandering through virtual life and was reminded of a lovely yet short offsite in Amby Valley years back. I have been planning this trip for more than four years and now that it has finally happened, it has a sure shot place in my ‘must go back again’ list.

Gorukana, which means ‘web of life’ is an eco-tourism resort spread over more than 14 acre consisting of only 10 cottages (each named after an animal found there), one tree house and a tented cottage from locally available materials so that it blends beautifully with the nature that surrounds it.  As you enter fresh air, smiling, polite staff, chirping birds welcome you.

The semi nomadic Soligas are the original inhabitants of this land.  One of their villages, Yarakanagadde (named after Yarakka trees that are found in abundance) is just at 5 min walking distance where you can stroll around to get a feel of the life led by this nature loving community.

A special mention for R. Krishna who besides being a naturalist, is a nice soul who accompanied us for our safari and walks and helped us spot The Magpie Robin, Greater Flameback Woodpeckers, Kingfisher, Vulture, Honeybazzard, , Orange headed Thrush, Black Drango, Serpent crested eagle. He also taught me to differentiate between Crocodile bark, Silver Oak and Axel wood trees.

Out of the three days spent there the first 1.5 days were sheer bliss. Great care was taken by the staff,  yummy meals cooked just right for a jungle vacation,, star lit skies, sounds of nature all around us soaked our soul.  There were ONLY us and one more family to enjoy the bounty. Highlight being the head cook Neeraj who hailed from Bihar (I always talk to support staff) actually made strong coffee, just the way I like it.

Then the regular urbanites arrived. Screaming children who came to a jungle resort to stay glued to a phone screen, their mothers louder than the beating drums asking them to eat food, office crowd behaving badly during the buffet by elbowing others….you get the drift.

Suggestion: Try visiting this place during weekdays to actually enjoy the serenity offered.

Activities: Safari, trekking, nature walks, visit to the tribal hamlets, visit to Biligiri Ranga temple, walks in coffee/ pepper plantation. Gorukana also encourages VOLUNTOURISM where you could help with their community development programme, lend a helping hand their hospital or school (whose pupil strength is 500 with 250 residing in boarding facilities) or even offer a hand at their organic farm.

The profits from the eco resort (run by VKGK) are utilized to the development of the people and the conservation of the wildlife, nature and tribals of BR hills. Gorukana is a perfect example of how biodiversity conservation and employment to the locals can go hand in hand.

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A big salute to Dr. Sudarshan: VGKK (Vivekenanda Girijana Kalyana Kendra) was founded in 1981 by doctor and tribal activist, Dr. H. Sudarshan, a recipient of Padmashree and a Magasaysay award winner. A social entrepreneur, deeply influenced by the teachings of Swami Vivekananda, for the last three decades has been actively involved in uplifting and empowering tribal hamlets. His passion and relentless dedication to mainstream Soliga population by setting up education facilities, healthcare system, better infrastructure and helping them earn a livelihood has shown positive results. He believes that it is important to retain culture and ecology of the indigenous people thus he opted for a unique method to empower and uplift the Soligas. His method involves integrating modern curriculum with tribal knowledge.

The ‘AVATAR’ connection:

Remember that magnificent Hometree from Avatar? Much before James Cameron made that fairy tale-ish, fantasy/ fiction genre film, in the jungles of BR Hills resided the Soliga tribals who have originally been nature worshippers. The hills are also home to the Soligas’ sacred grove of champaka trees, with the largest one close to a thousand years old. This tree, known as Doddasampige, is worshipped as the god of the Soliga tribe. I heard that the grove off-limits for tourists. Maybe someday, if I can manage to become a part of the much loved jungle I will visit it.

If you are looking for cut off from the world vacation and respect nature and people who work to protect it, this place is a must in your itinerary.

Route : Nice Road -Kanakpura exit – Malavalli – Kollegal – Yellandur – Gorukana. Took us 3 hours. We left at 8 am.

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*Jungle – Original word Jangala (Sanskrit) that refers to rough, arid terrain.

** Popular Indian saying that means ‘The fruits of being patient is always sweet’

 

 

Hurricane Hyderabad

This is not the usual travel blog that one looks up.

This is less of a traditional travel destination guide and more about being an enthu cutlet *.  On Christmas 2015, a lovely sun soaked technically winter day, we undertook a slightly crazy trip. Zipped down 600 kms (point A being our home to point B where my niece currently resides) one way to Hyderabad, spent just a day in that city and rushed back all over again to Bangalore. Everyone and their cousins raised an eyebrow at this ‘why did you guys even bother’ vacation. However, a break is a break, no matter how short a duration it is.  As with every journey, even if it is a hurricane tour, I did come back enriched (leaving aside the handicraft obsessed me who found slice of heaven in Shilparamam) in more ways than one.

In this post I am going to focus on only two aspects of the trip.  First: Will try and share details of the B’lore-Hyd-B’lore road journey. Whatever information floated on the net was dated when I researched and thus I hope this helps the next ‘I love road’ candidate. Second: First- hand information on how to enjoy Golconda fort when you are a certified vertigo patient.

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Bangalore, capital of Karnataka and Hyderabad, common capital of Telengana and Andhra Pradesh is roughly 570 kms, is a very doable road trip. While Hyderabad, once famous for trading in pearls and diamonds is still referred as the city of pearls, Bangalore once known for its lakes, gardens and weather is now known for its ability to export IT services and potholed roads.

We like roads. We like drives. However, we are not very keen on driving at night on highways and thus prefer starting early to reach our destinations by noon/ early afternoon-ish.

The route between B’lore –Hyd consists of: Bangalore > Hebbal flyover > Devanahalli > Chikballapur > Bagepally > Penukonda >Anantpur > Pamidi > Gooty > Dhone > Kurnool >Jadcherla >Outer Ring Road Hyderabar

Quick reckoner:

• Road: You will mostly be on NH7 (still goes by the old name in Govt records) which is in good condition. Even if one drives at a leisurely 100 km, you will reach Hyderabad easily within 7 hours (excluding breaks).
• Timings: If you wish to avoid being stuck in the city itself for hours due to traffic (and all those who live in B’lore know about the dismal traffic conditions) try leaving home ideally by 5.30 am max 6 am. Fog will envelop you in winter during early hours; we were covered in mist and felt like actors in a ghost movie which added to the adventurewala feel.
• Food: There are not too many good food options on this stretch. No CCD/ McDonald’s or any such known outlets. And dhabas in South are very different from those at Northern parts of India. I have learnt the hard way. No paranthas and bhurji and adrakhwali chai that makes winter mornings more lovable. The options are:
• Nandi Upachar: This vegetarian ONLY joint is located on the Devanahalli-Nandi hills road junction. Ample parking space and easy to locate, the food is tasty and the place offers clean restrooms.
• There is also Kamat, A2B and Indian Paratha Company in and around the international airport stretch but unless you are really hungry a pit stop there while heading out of the city does not make sense.
• A1 Plaza: Near Gooty. We stopped here for our masala dosa quota.
• Ghar Dhaba : Once you cross the toll booth, this is on the outskirts of Kurnool.
• While leaving Hyderabad, once you cross Kurnool toll, there is a little group of small joints. The one named Taj Palace is clean, has ample seating and has cute fat pups on its premise.

If you can carry sandwiches or other such dry and easy to carry food items to snack in the car itself you can avoid breakfast break altogether.

• Be very careful about dogs and cows on the road. They feel like crossing at any given point and if you are a dog lover like me, seeing dead dogs lying dead with blood all over will be a distressing sight.
• Carry cash. Quite a few petrol pumps cooly inform about card machines not running
• We made a mistake of not checking air pressure in our car in spite of so many road trips and had to stop post Gooty to fix that.
• There will be 7 toll booths. The rates vary between INR 20-90. Keeping change is thus a good idea.

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As a five year old, Baba had read me stories of Maharana Pratap’s gallantry. ** That was when forts and their magnificence started fascinating me. Having covered some of the well-known relics in Rajasthan, this was my first tick in the forts of India to do list from the southern part of the country. Golconda fort (or rather ruins of the fort), a must visit for history, nostalgia and architecture aficionados, lived up to my expectations.

Brief history: Originally known as Mankal, the history of Golconda Fort goes back to early 13th century, when it was ruled by the Kakatiya’s followed by Bahmani Sultans and then the Qutub Shahi kings, who ruled the region in 16th and 17th century. The fortress rests on a granite hill 120 meters high while huge crenellated ramparts surround this structure.  Built of mud and later expanded with granite, Golconda is one of the strongest forts of medieval India, with three lines of fortification. The first line encloses the town, the second runs around the foot of the hills hosting the main citadel, the third connected walls of masonary to natural boulders.

Spread across nearly 11km, Golconda, the principal capital of the Qutub Shahi dynasty, it consists of  four distinct forts, 8 gateways (Fateh, Bahmani, Mecca, Patancheru, Banjara, Jamali, Naya Qula and Moti), four drawbridges, number of royal apartments, darbars, temples, mosques, magazines, stables inside. It also boasts of a hill top pavilion which gives a bird’s eye view of the city.

One of the most interesting facets of Golconda is the use of signaling system with the help of acoustics technology (concept of sound physics) which was way ahead of time. The various edifices and arches are created in a way that sounds can be transmitted to faraway places. These helped an army commander to know what the sentry was doing and also helped to warn Royals in case of an attack. We did find a lot of people standing and clapping under the entrance arch, but it is difficult to know if the people at the main citadel point heard it.

 

The diamond connection: Golconda is renowned for the diamonds mines. Well known globally for its diamond trade, the gems that exchanged hands here came from a number of mines. Kollur mine located in Guntur district,  Paritala and Atkur in Krishna district were some of the famous ones during the Kakatiya reign. Magnificent diamonds were taken from the mines in the region surrounding Golkonda, including the Daria-i-noor or “Sea of Light”, at 185 carats (37.0 g). The Golkonda Fort used to have a vault where once the famous Koh-i-Noor and Hope diamonds were also stashed.

Trivia: The name Golconda at some point had taken a generic meaning and was associated with great wealth. Gemologists use the classification to denote a diamond with a complete (or almost-complete) lack of nitrogen; “Golconda” material is also referred to as “2A”.

For the vertigo afflicted souls:

Around, around the sun we go:

The moon goes round the earth.

We do not die of death:

We die of vertigo.”

― Archibald MacLeish, Collected Poems, 1917-1982

Well, you cannot stop living because of a certain physical condition; you just have to find ways to deal with life better. Things to remember when you visit the fort:

• Buy water and some munchies prior to entering the main fort
• Wear comfortable shoes; the stairs though wide are slippery in certain portions. Plus you have to walk a lot.
• Avoid visiting in the morning, the sun shines real bright and will enhance tiredness. Anytime post 3pm is good. We reached around 4.30 pm which was a little late because one needs to get down before the sun sets and ended up touring the fort in a hurry.
• There are various ways of going all the way to the top. Take your time; climb up slowly, climb down carefully. On one side the stairs are real wide and has space enough to sit and rest. This route is very important while coming down. I suffered a very bad vertigo attack while trying to climb down the other route which had steeper stairs. It is a bad, bad idea. No place to sit and rest when you feel you are losing your balance.
• Carry your medicines (Betavert, Stemetil whatever your doc has prescribed)
• Ideally visit with family or friends or some human companion. If on a tour alone, do take help of fellow visitors or the guide
• Try not to look back too much while climbing unless someone is taking good photographs that you can share 🙂

 

Golconda offers you magnificent panoramic view of the city when you reach the highest point. There is grandeur, there is magnificence, there is knowledge left behind for the future generations as you walk around. Read up prior to visiting to understand the water supply system. The famous Rahban cannon and Ramadas prison are other attractions.

 

How to reach: Located 11 kms from Hyderabad city centre, it is accessible through roads.

Timings: All weekdays except Friday. 9.30 am – 5.30 pm. However we did see people entering even at 6 pm. You need to buy separate tickets to attend light and sound show.

Where to eat: Munchies like wafers, potato chips, cakes et all are allowed (to be carried) inside. There is a CCD outlet right next to the ticket counter side entrance. There are various shops in an around for quick bites. Telangana Tourism operates Taramati Baradari resorts at a distance of 4.3kms from the fort. Officialy listed number in Telegana tourism website: 040-23512401

 

Light and Sound Show: Tickets are priced at INR 130. The show starts post 6.30 pm. Over an hour long, the show has Bollywood’s living legend, Amitabh Bacchan’s lovely baritone, taking you back to history. They do light small fires to keep away mosquitos and also spray mosquito repellant. But, it is wise to carry your own quota of anti-mosquito gel and cover your hands, feet and head with scarves/ socks etc. If visiting during winter, carry a shawl or pillow to place on the plastic chairs.

PS: *Enthu-cutlet: A very local way of describing over enthusiastic people. ** Maharana Pratap : Fearless warrior. Ruler of Mewar. Fought Mughals.

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One of my all-time favorite artists Rene Magritte has a painting ‘golconda’ named after the fort. Painted in 1953, the piece depicts a scene of nearly identical men dressed in dark overcoats and bowler hats, who seem to be drops of heavy rain (or to be floating like helium balloons, though there is no actual indication of motion), against a backdrop of buildings and blue sky.

Bishnupur : A low key, tucked away corner rich in history & architecture

Times of India on 23^rd February 2014 carried a wittily put together article on snobbery and included TRAVEL SNOBS in that. It cheekily mentions that folks who do not swim with sharks or chase vicunas in Atacama are looked down by the highbrow travelers.

Now I am yet to chase vicunas, but I realize I suffer from alienation issues with the travel plans of an average, middle to upper middle class Indian. Couple of conversations reiterated that. Look, I have no issues that you want to visit Bangkok, Singapore and Thailand. I understand airlines have decent deals; you can dutifully inform your FB friends (the most important people in our lives) that you are indeed part of the jet setting type and truth is phoren locales do make us Indians, salivate. But I do raise my eyebrows (inwardly) when your entire year’s travel itinerary does not include any part of our exotic country. Quite a few of my north Indian friends have not heard of quaint yet interesting places in Bengal. A whole bunch of my Bengali friends do not know about historically rich places in South India. It is exasperating indeed! 

Thus a post about a historically rich place tucked away in the interiors of West Bengal which some real travel aficionados may have missed. Whenever you visit that part of the country, incorporate this in your schedule if you are remotely interested in history of mankind and that of our motherland. Or even if you are a car/ bike enthusiast, looking for a short yet interesting trip. For a nostalgia junkie like me, it was of course in ‘must visit’ in the bucket list.

Image courtesy: Trekearth.com

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FYI: I had undertaken this trip in 2005; memories and photographs may be slightly faded.

Exquisite terracotta temples that stand testimony to its glorious past, Bishnupur, located in the Bankura district of WB, 150 kms from Calcutta, is also renowned for its handicrafts and Baluchari sarees. Bishnupur caught my attention for the first time while devouring one of Sastipada Chattopashya’s * “Pandab Goyenda”.

Besides Tintin, their adventures were much looked forward to in my childhood

Those who grew up in Bengal in the 80s and can read Bengali must have heard of this series; it was kind of a localised version of Famous Five. In one of their daring adventures while they were vacationing in Bishnupur during their summer holidays, they expectedly helped nab a bunch of dangerous criminals. It was awe inducing. I mean, at that ripe old age of 7-10, I so badly wanted to be them – they travelled on their own, had a pet Indie dog, ate lots of samosa-jalebis and other munchies and even carried knives/ pistols to combat criminals. I had made up my mind that one day I will walk those exact lanes of Bishnupur, and maybe I will be lucky enough to shoo away some rogue criminal with my mere presence!

History is something I became fond of much later in life.

For history addicts: The history of Bishnupur can be traced back to 694 AD, when King Raghunath 1 founded the Malla dynasty.  Bishnupur was the capital of Mallabhoom or regions ruled by the Mallas that included Bankura, parts of Midnapore, Burdwan and Chota Nagpur.  Malla, an aboriginal title was used for many centuries before they took the Kshatriya title of Singh; locally they have been referred as the Bagdi Rajas all over Bengal.

Under their able rule, Bishnupur developed a unique form of architecture and has perhaps the most brilliant and detailed terracotta work in Eastern India that has withstood the ravages of time. However it was much later in 994 AD that the place was named Bishnupur. The name is derived from the name of the Hindu God ‘Vishnu’ and the majority people then belonged to the ‘Vaishnava’ sect. Though it reached its zenith in the 17th and early 18th centuries, the Maratha ravages followed by the famine of 1771 depopulated their territory and the kingdom slowly dissolved. Eventually the entire estate was sold by the Government for arrears of revenue in 1806. The last of the Rajas was Ram Krishna Singh Deb who died without a son or heir.

Handicrafts and more

 

 

How to reach: Bishnupur  is well connected and can be reached both by train and by bus.

• Calcutta State Transport Corporation (CSTC) and South Bengal State Transport Corporation (SBSTC) buses ply regularly between Dharmatala/ Esplanade bus stand of Kolkata and Bishnupur. Or if you are in any other part of WB, you can take a bus from Tarakeswar, Durgapur, Bardhaman and Kharagpur.
• Trains to Bishnupur depart from 2 stations in Kolkata: Howrah Jn (HWH) and Santragachi Jn (SRC)
• If you hire  a cab or decide to drive down from Kolkata travel to Dankuni, take the Durgapur Expressway, at Ratanpur crossing turn left and take the Sheoraphuli-Tarakeswar road, go straight through to Arambagh and Bishnupur.

Once you reach Bishnupur, you can hire private auto-rickshaws or cycle-rickshaws; I personally feel cycle ricksaws with their sluggish pace enables you to inhale the rich history of the town better.

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How and why I detoured to Durgapur from an intended Nepal trip 2005, is a long story, so we will let that be. I was required to stay at Durgapur for 2-3 days attending some personal work, when it struck me that my wish of visiting Bishnupur can be converted to reality. One of my friends knew a reliable cab driver and she and I left for our day trip post breakfast the very next day. Ideally an overnight option at one of the hotels/ lodges is a better way to explore leisurely the town and its people.

Details of stay options can be found at: http://sdobishnupur.in/portal/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7&Itemid=159

Some part of the journey did have roads which were not in the best of shape (the situation may have changed for better now). But overall it was a pleasant ride through the outskirts of villages and forests and you can enjoy the fresh air caressing your face and hair while your eyes feast on the laidback vistas of rural Bengal as you approach the town. The sky was overcast adding to our sense of adventure rather than act as a deterrent. We reached post 10 am and had around 4 hours with us, barring a late lunch at my friend’s extended family members’ place so we decided on hiring a cycle ricksaw for some parts of the tour.  I have a soft corner for these major non-polluting vehicles that invariable reminds me of my childhood, spent in another small town of Bengal where it was a major form of transportation.  Lalan, our ricksaw puller also pitched in from time to time as our tour guide.

Major attractions: I will personally not describe Bishnupur as a temple town because I feel it has so much more to offer but yes, the temples are the major attraction. Crafted intricately by native craftsmen with mostly local laterite and brick as raw materials, the temples have elaborate tiles depicting scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata, Shri Khrishna’s life, war scenes and some domestic scenes depicting life in those days. Till such time that I visited Bishnupur, I had no idea that terracotta tiles can be so breath taking!

Scenes from our epics

Intricate work on pillars

Rasamancha, the oldest of the brick temple, is curiously shaped like Pyramid, surrounded by hut like turrets. Built in the late 16^th century, it is extremely unique and perhaps the only one in eastern India) not dedicated to any particular Hindu God/ Goddesses. In fact during the yearly “Rasparba” all the deities belonging to Radha and Khrishna would be collated under the same roof.

Image courtesy: bishnupurguide.com

The other important ones are the Radha Madhav temple, Shyamray Temple (considered the most beautiful), Khrishna-Balaram Mandir, Jorh Bangla Temple, RadhaShyam temple, LaljiTemple and the Madanmohan temple.  

Must pose in a filmy manner at some point (my quirk on most travel destinations)

Note: The Sub Divisional Officer- Bishnupur’s site mentions that presently RashMancho, Kalachand and JorBangla temples are illuminated at night to showcase the cultural finesse. However because of miscreants (how we love to disrespect our history) some of the temples have a wired boundary which means you cannot go up close to see that beautiful terracotta work and can only appreciate it from a suitable distance.

 

Stone Chariot (yes not only Hampi can claim that they have it J), ‘Pathar Daraja’ or fort and Dalmadal Kaman (cannon) are the other  attractions. 

http://bishnupurguide.blogspot.in/2009/09/dalmadal-canon-made-by-human-used-by.html is a page that narrated the story attached to the mammoth cannon.

Then there is Lalbandh ( a huge water body) and Nutan Mahal. This has a Bollywood potboiler story attached. King Raghunath Singh was so much in love with his mistress Lalbai (for whom Nutan mahal was constructed) that not only did he promise to organize a bigger celebration on the occasion of their son’s birthday as compared to his own younger sibling Gopal Singh, but forced everyone to accept that invitation. The subjects were worried that Lalbai has conspired with Katlu Khan (a powerful Mughal ruler) to overpower Raghunath Singh and take control of the kingdom and throne. The misunderstanding between the king and his wife reaches a point where she kills him. Struck with grief, she joins her husband in the funeral pyre as Sati (yes, that atrocious practice was highly recommended in those days). On the head priests’s instruction, a chained Lalbai was forcefully drowned in Lalbandh by angry mob. Her child was adopted by the head priest. Phew! 

Handicrafts & textiles: What caught my eyes and is still imprinted in my mind as me and my friend scouted for keepsakes, is that the craftsmen and artisans who toil to make the eye catching products are impoverished and needs encouragement from all sections of our society.

The most famous art form of Bishnupur is of course Terracotta followed by Baluchari and Swarnachari sarees. One saree may even have an entire episode of Mahabharata crafted in its border and pallu – such is the brilliant craftsmanship.

 

 

Besides that you also have Dokra figuruines, bell metal &brass artefacts, woodcrafts & Bishnupuri lanterns.  The conch shell carving is one of the traditional art of Bishnupur mostly patronised by the Sankha Banik caste. Besides, making bangles (sanka), the artisans beautifully curve various mythological characters of Hindu pantheons on conch shell.

 

 

 

 

Bishnupuri lanterns

‘Pot‘ and ‘Dash Avatar Taash‘ another important handicraft item has foreign market demand. The ‘Dash Avatar Taash‘ used to play by Malla Rajas. Contrary to usual 52 no. of parlaying cards, 120 no. of ‘Dash Avatar’ playing cards is required. In Bishnupur Mela, the demonstration of the playing ‘Dash Avatar Tash’ is made to popularize the ancient game.

Dash Avatar Tash

FYI: In the whole trip we had to take tickets twice, once from Archaeological Survey of India for visiting 3 temples under their care and protection and another for Lalgarh Nature Park. On our ricksaw puller insistence, we did stop at one of those emporiums that sell stunning handicrafts, I did purchase an elephant (everyone and their cousins have the Bishnupur horses, I needed to be different!) and an intricate terracotta conch. And yes, they are conversation starters. 

Bishnupur terracotta elephant

On our way back, we were quiet. The sleepy, laid back, quaint town had a very soul satisfying effect. Go ahead, smell unpolluted air, touch the red soil and discover the rich heritage of our land for yourself. Its enchanting!

Me on our way back…somewhere where there were huge trees, soft grass….

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Notes: The Sub-Division administration of Bishnupur, since 1988, with the help of Bankura District administration and Zilla Parishad has been organizing 5-Day long Bishnupur Mela in December.The Tourism Department in association with local administration, to promote tourist interests organize 2-Day long Classical programme at Bishnupur during the month of December/ January. Similar to Konark or Khajuraha Festival, such classical programme is organized keeping the temples of Bishnupur at background.

*Sastipada Chattopadhya was born on 9th March, 1941 in Central Howrah, Khurut Sashtitala..He started his literary work from early adulthood. Though he was working with Anandabazar Robibarsio from 1961 he got recognition for Pandab Goyenda which he penned for children in 1981.